Digging around in the back of the fridge for something to put in my lunch time sandwich I came across a small round of Millleen cheese that had somehow missed out on being eaten amongst the various food stuffs we brought back from Cork at Easter.

It was a couple of months past its best before date but that didn’t matter. It just meant my fingers carried with them a slightly more pungent smell with them after I had made up the sandwich than they might otherwise have done. It was good to catch a whiff every so often sat at my desk through the morning so I could look forward to lunch.

A few years ago I picked up via eBay a copy of The Observer Guide to British Cookery by Jane Grigson. It includes a memorable description of a trip to the farm where Milleen was, and is still…