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You know you are in safe hands if you spot on the shelves in the kitchen of the guesthouse you are staying a copy of Fergus Henderson’s Nose to Tail cooking, the first two Moro cookbooks, Ottolenghi’s first two books and a Penguin edition of more or less everything that Elizabeth David wrote. You are in even safer hands if the first Moro book is opened up to the recipe for chicken braised with sherry and garlic and the page is spattered with grease.

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