Mexican tinga poblana and Giant Sand

Ok. If the best night of my life was when I saw REM at Warwick University in about 1983 and Green and Red played at about 2.00 in the morning and I was at the front doing the Woo Woo’s into the microphone that was thrust into the audience as they covered Sympathy for the Devil and Pete Buck played guitar and ignored me when I told him I loved him then the second best was seeing Giant Sand in the Co-operative Hall on the Cowley Road only a few years later.

Giant Sand are one of those bands.

They have been releasing records for more than thirty years one way or other either under the name of Giant Sand or under cover of main man, Howe Gelb, or one of his aliases. There is a sound to all of them – an out of kilter sun blasted sound, stuttering guitar and Howe Gelb’s half singing half talking voice over the top – telling of another shagged dog story. He’s made records with Canadian choirs and Andalusian guitarists and most recently a motley crew of Danes and although each are different they are all anchored down by his voice and the sound.

For the second best night we started the evening off in The Bullingdon Arms drinking Guinness with whiskey chasers  and then made our way to the gig. The evening passed in a blur of Newcastle Brown Ale, all that was sold in the venue, and music. For part of the gig Giant Sand were joined on stage by some old timer singer in a black cowboy hat, black leather and a silver eagle belt.

I shouted out for them to play Mountain of Love and although Howe said it was an old one he played it and we danced furiously at the front of the stage and Howe handed me a can of beer to finish off in the heat.

The next day I was walking into Oxford across Magdelen Bridge and Howe Geb was sat on one of the benches looking cool in the sun shine. I was that close to going up and thanking him for the beer but I carried on. He just looked too cool and of himself to be disturbed by me. But I still think that if I had gone up and said hello then my life would have turned out differently.

This evening we have eaten Mexican tinga poblana, which seemed appropriate. The recipe came from Diane Henry’s Food from plenty.

A kilo of good tomatoes were halved and roasted in a hot oven with oil, salt, pepper and sugar for forty-five minutes and four dried chillies were put to soak in warm water.

A chorizo sausage was cut up and cooked in oil until it started to give off its fat. In then went a large oven proof dish and a half shoulder of pork which had been chopped down to manageable chunks was browned off in batches in the same pan. As each batch of pork browned it went into the pot with the chorizo. Once the pork was done some oil was added to the pan and a couple of onions were browned off as well with garlic and chopped marjoram from the garden and ground cumin. The pan was cleaned out with some beer and the pot then went on a low heat for an hour or so.

Twenty or minutes or so before we were due to eat the tomatoes were spooned into the pot and stirred in so they just about held their shape. I should have seeded the chilies but they didn’t seem hot enough so they were chopped and added along with the liquor in which they had been soaking.

For eating it was covered in chopped coriander and soured cream. We ate it with rice listening to burnt out music.

A cheese fondue

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There is a danger that Spring may be round the corner. One of us was outside sweeping up the end of last years leaves and the other was inside feckling out bits of dust that had been sat quiet for too long.

The leaves are all bagged up and hopefully this time next year will have turned into a dark brown mulch that I will be able to spread around elsewhere in the garden.

In the sun the greenhouse was hot and I felt a twinge of guilt that I hadn’t got round to planting anything in there yet. If I had done then the seeds could of been making good use of the heat.

The guilt was assuaged by the fact that I had been able to extract a confession from someone whose tomatoes I have long admired that he didn’t grow them from seed but instead he picked up seedlings from the garden centre instead.

There was one solitary squashed looking daisy in the middle of the lawn but a couple of daffodils had blown cover and there was the first sign of blossom in the trees.

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As a last hurrah for the cold months we had a cheese fondue recipe courtesy of Keith Floyd.

It is perhaps difficult to believe the we are blest with having two fondue sets.

I had acquired one as a Christmas present a year or before getting married and then we got the second as a wedding present. hey don’t come out very often although I do have dim recollections of being bold enough to have two different cheese fondues on the go on the one evening. There must of been a few cheese nightmares that night.

If we do have a cheese fondue then it is the Keith Floyd recipe that I use. An almost equal amount of amount of Emmenthal and Gruyere cheese cut up into cubes stirred over a low heat in the fondue pot with wine, a squeeze of lemon juice and a dash of Kirsch mixed up with some cornflour. The cornflour is important as it helps bind the wine a cheese together in a smooth creamy mass.

Don’t forget to rub the inside of the pot with some garlic before you start cooking.

Once the cheese has melted and blending into wine and volcanic bubbles are bursting through the surface, stir in some chop herbs and salt and plenty of pepper, then transfer the pot to the burner and eat with crusty bread and try not to burn your mouth.

Up to your waist in mackerel

Ralph Bullivant's avatarSheep's Head Food Company

‘Feck. Did you know once, once there was a man who set himself the task of counting the stripes on a mackerel’s back.’

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We both drank at our pints.

‘Jimmy Carroll he told me the story and showed me the paper this man wrote. His grandfather, James Carroll, was a fish merchant in Kinsale on Fisher Street and he had a shop on The Pier, and the man wrote to him letters asking questions about the fish that he sold. The man, Walter Garstang, if there is such a name was a professor and a fellow of some sort, a college, in Oxford.

‘Back then the men would catch mackerel by dropping rocks in the water. They’d take two boats out and one of those boats would have a net in and the other would be filled with pieces of stone and there would be six men in each boat…

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Waiting for the mackerel to come

Ralph Bullivant's avatarSheep's Head Food Company

He looked out over the Bay and let it wash over him. It was the first day the sun had been out since a day back in November and all the days of wind, rain and disturbance seemed to dissolve behind him in the rush of light that came in off the water. He took it all in, breathing slowly.

He put his hand in his pocket and his fingers played with the loose change the coins rolling over each other. There was some expectation there, money to spend and things to do. He could start to put behind him some of the day to day mire and think about days in the sun.

There was a voice beside him ‘Feck it’s not the sun that you need but an hour catching fish and then some time listening to feck all being said in the pub.’

‘On a day like…

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