A Roadkill Burger at Mason’s Cafe

First day in Cape Tribulation we drove back five minutes down to Mason’s Store. We had read about it as a place for good burgers and even better there was croc free pool where it would be possible to cool yourself off in clear cold water without there being any danger of ending up as lunch.

The pool was a minutes walk from the road past a box inviting us to contribute a gold coin by way of fee. Presumably this was to pay the man who made sure that there were sufficient Belgium tourists and dogs to keep the crocodiles happy so there was no need for them to visit the creek and spoil the fun for all those in the watering hole. The pool had been half made by a wall of stones that had been laid across the creek. We had to push past vines and thorns to get there and then stumble across the shallows to a suitable disrobing place.

The water was cool out of the heat and there was a sudden lurch as we realised that at one point the pool was so deep our feet did not touch the bottom.

We then made our way  back to the cafe and a road kill burger that may or may not have contained some of the crocodile recently removed from the pool.

 

 

 

The road to Cape Tribulation

It may seem strange to suggest that there were some similarities between the drive across Ireland to Ahakista in South West Cork and the drive from Cairns to Cape Tribulation but similarities there were.

The drive from Dublin to Cork is mostly green fields, mountains and sky. The drive from Cairns along the Captain Cook Highway was mostly fields of sugar cane, small towns, mountains and sky. For much of the way there was a small gauge railway line that ran alongside the road presumably to be used to transport the sugar cane once it was harvested.

The sugarcane gave way once we were passed Daintree and when we were over the ferry across the Daintree River we were driving through rainforest. It took a couple of minutes and we kept a close eye out for crocodiles in the dark brown water but none were to be seen.

The first time you do the drive from Durrus to Ahakista it can seem as if the road goes on forever. To the right of you there is the spine of the Sheep’s Head Peninsula and to the left there is the water and then there is the road that twists and turns leading ever onward but with no sense of where it will end. It gets to a point you expect that round ever bend in the road you will be there but all there is another view of the sea and the road carries on.

So it was on the a road to Cape Tribulation. We were more conscious of the mountains on our left that being able to see them but every so often past a kink in the road we could see them rearing yo covered in green trees and shrouded in cloud. The road cleaved through the rain forest on we were hemmed in by green trees and then we would be able to see a glimpse of the ocean, the Coral Sea, through the green haze on right. Instead of tractors we were looking out for Cassowaries. We had been told that they are capable of killing a man, especially if separated from their young. Every mile or so there was a sign warning us that they had been spotted and we were not to run them down.

And then when we crossed a creek their were signs warning of crocodiles. They had been spotted and were capable of inflicted death and serious injury. The signs were in English and German although we had it on good authority that it was the Belgiums who were most in need of the warnings. Apparently the last man to be bitten by a crocodile was Belgium albeit the wound was superficial. He had been creeping up a creek looking for a good photograph.

We didn’t seen any cassowaries, crocodiles and Belgiums and still the road carried on and so we found ourselves revisiting the first drive to Ahakista and the expectant wait that round each next bend we would be there.

We did eventually arrive and as we did so the clouds that had shrouded the upper reaches of the mountains turned dark and then black and a heavy rain came down. It was the sort of rain that would turn the concrete umbrella on the pier into a sheet of water. It came down heavy and unforgiving. As we booked into reception I looked outside and asked about the weather for the next few days.

It was all going to be much the same. After all we were in the rainforest.

 

Snorkling

 

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According to one of the guide books, if it had been a clear day and if we had looked carefully, then it would have been just about possible to see The Barrier Reef from our Skyline gondola as we came to the last half mile onto the flat ground that surrounds Cairns. All that we could see was mountains and water.

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As it happened it didn’t matter too much as we had a much closer look at The Barrier Reef today.

This meant an early morning start to get our boat out of Cairns harbour. We were warned that it would be bumpy as we pulled out into the open sea so we forced fed ourselves sea-sickness pills which seemed to do the trick.

It took a good hour of our bouncing over the swell for us to get to our first stop. There was then a rush to pull on wet and clingy black stinger suits, wet shoes, snorkel and mask before our feet were pushed hard into a pair flippers and we were in the water.

On the surface there was a strong wind and choppy sea but as soon as we put our faces under the water all that went away and we were left with the sound of our breathing through the plastic pipe of the snorkel and a slowly unfolding world beneath of made up of myriad fish and corals that seemed to take on colours that no one had thought of before.

24 hours in Cairns

First day in Cairns and we went for a walk down near the sea and watched some of the boats coming in from The Barrier Reef.

Second day in we took the scenic railway up into the mountains. This needed an early start outside Cairns’ railway station. We all managed to resist the temptation to pull the emergency cord.

In Kuranda we took on more leathery skin and some of us tried to resist the temptation to buy a leather hat. We then managed to find ourselves a good lunch in a place called Frogs.

In order to get back home we had to take a cable-car over the rain forest. There were times we loomed two or three hundred feet off the ground. The kids talked on our likelihood of survival if we were to fall and I kept to the back of my mind all thoughts of Where Eagles Dare.