To the shores of Lake Placid

I went to a minor English public school and hated it.

In some ways it might not have been as bad at the prep school I went to. There I was dropped off every Monday morning from the age of about ten and stood in tears through that mornings assembly dreaming of running away but with nowhere to go to. But at least there I had a nickname. Even the teachers called me “Chops” and I was free to play through with myself the adventures that might take me away from the place.

Once I was at the public school I lost my familiar nickname and there was more cruelty in the names that followed and for my first few years there I just went by the name of “******”.

One of the few good things I had with me when I arrived was a grey tape machine. It was built like a small shoebox with a speaker at the top, a slot for the tape to go in and five chunky keys to press to make it play, record, pause, rewind and forward play. I think the only tape I had was the first Beatles compilation.

There were still some vestiges of fagging when I started at the school and one of the jobs that we had to do was take it in turns to get up early one morning in the week to clean out the dirty dishes that had been left in the sink by the sixth formers in their common room. This was a blue basement room that had to be closed a couple of years after I started at the school when it transpired the ceiling was made up of abestos board. The filthy sink was in the far left corner and was always left filled with dishes caked with food and cold water but the walls down there were covered with posters.

This was 1977 and the posters would have represented tastes in music that were about to be swept away by punk. But those posters spoke to me of a musical world that was almost totally unknown to me and it seemed as if only I could unlock the sound of that music all would be okay.

Up to then my musical lanscape had been limited to the soundtracks of Hair and Jesus Christ Superstar and an unlikly friendship with someone called Justin Clayton who went onto play guitar with Julien Lennon (who come to think of it had also been at the same prep school – albeit briefly) and who had a copy of Black Sabbath’s Technical Ecstasy.

The posters were suggestive of whole new world of grown up sound that was out there; Pink Floyd,  Jethro Tull , Genisis.

I was lucky in that the wave of new music sweeping all that aside caught me before I got too heavily pulled in.

Despite that early exposure I never quite got the majority of those 70’s bands although Pink Floyd had me badly for a few years and somewhere in the back of my mind I more or less know off by heart the whole of The Wall.

But then other more rigorous music was starting to come though and I was occaisionally able to pick up an early copy of Smash Hits. Ian Drury’s opening words to Plaistow Patricia were whispered under our breathe and Blondie’s Heart of Glass was one of the first singles I bought along with a poster of an impossible Debbie Harry and somewhere long the way I was introduced to late night radio and John Peel.

Strangely although punk had been raging over the previous few years we somehow came to the filth and the fury six months too late and second hand. But we could hear it raging in the distance and we hung on to its coattails.

I had a friend Ivan Tennant who came from near Liverpool and was almost a scouser. He had got hold of the first album by Orchestral Manouvres in the Dark and we sat up one night listening to it over and over staring at the blank black sleeve. Then someone had a copy of Unkonwn Pleasures and we sat listening to that and the boy who had bought it wanted to know what I thought of it and all I could think to say through its clatter of rhythm and guitar that it was the sort of music that would inspire other music.

I was reminded of all this when picking up on an article written by Bill Drummond that someone put up on Facebook in which he set out some of his memories of the Liverpool scene from the late 1970’s and early 80’s and the part that Pete Burns had played in it all.

My friend Ivan Tennant skirted around some of that and he had brought back from Probe Records to put on the wall of our sixth form common room a vast yellow poster of Pete Burns’ first bad Nightmares on Wax. Talk at school took tales of Probe Records and the bands that played at Erics and we listened to Echo and the Bunnymen., Wah! Heat and The Teardop Explodes and as we did so we started to listen to the bands that they listened to.

All the while we lay in our beds after 10.00pm earpieces stuck in our ears taking in the music that John Peel played. I can still hear him setting up a track from the Doc at the Radar Station, the latest album from Captain Beefheart, before cluttering into Totally Wired by The Fall.

In the article Bill Drummond talked about a family tree of Liverpool Bands put together by Pete Frame. I had the same family tree stuck to my bedroom wall at home. Last night I was able to find it neatly tucked up inside the inner sleeve of a compilation album of those same Liverpool bands called To the Shores of Lake Placid.

 

Still the boy at that public school looking at the posters on the wall and wanting to listen to the music.

I should have got out of bed earlier

I went to The Farmer’s Market with the intention of buying myself some quail. I have been thinking about them for the last couple of days. I even had a recipe lined involving  orange juice, grapes and ginger.

Inevitably by the time I got there they had all sold out. That didn’t matter too much as they were selling a brace of partridge for £5.00 but of course they had sold out of those as well. Woodcock were also on the list but those had also all gone.

All that was left was pheasant so I came home with a brace of those to be cooked with apples and cider.

The chicken man was there again. I bought one for the freezer and he promised me he would be back next month for to order a capon to be collected 23 December ready for Christmas Day. The only bit of planning I will allow myself.

Driving way I chewed on an excellent pork and black haggis pie.

 

Brindisa

This evening I have had a go with breaking with tradition.

The last few times I have had occasion to have night out by myself in London I have taken myself of to Morito and have sat by myself hunched up by the bar watching the food being cooked and then eating the same.

This evening I had children to meet and they were coming in from disparate parts so for one reason or other we found ourselves down by Brindisa in Borough Market.

I have always been disposed to the the place because the the once and only time we have been there before there was a table that had over ordered as a result of which there was a plate of good and expensive ham going spare. We were offered it and took it off their hands gratefully.

There were no free plates of ham on hand tonight but we still managed to fill ourselves with plenty with more ham, black rice with squid, lamb chops with tomato and potatoes, sea bass, octopus and a grand plate of potatas bravas.

Replete we settled ourselves with a glass of Pacharan before the children left into the night.

There was a wistfulness about the leaving of them as they were clearly  quite old enough now to take themselves off into the night of London without any help I could offer.

The last of the 72 hours in Prague

The last few hours in Prague were spent in much the same way as my first Saturday morning in that the same cemetery I had been to on Saturday morning was visited and I had lunch in a vast beer hall eating meat products and dumplings drinking large glasses of beer.

The cemetery was in the grounds of Vyšehrad, Prague’s second castle, in fact not so much a castle anymore as all that remains are the vast brick ramparts which look out over the river and the city. Within the ramparts there is a green park, the Church of sc Petr and Pavel and a small crowded cemetery.

 

The cemetery is filled to overflowing with the graves of the great and the good of Prague going back a couple of hundred years. Some of the graves are nothing more than a slab of stone marked with the name of the deceased, some of the stones are etched with pictures and topped with a sculpture. Round the side of the cemetery and gated off are the more elaborate graves bright with gold and blue and sell importance. One of the most ornate is Dvorak’s whose name I found myself totally unable to pronounce.

In and amongst the graves yellow gloved nuns tidied up rearranging the small conker tributes that had been created on some of the stones.

Having done our fill of graves we took a tram back into the centre of town past a cubist apartment block and had coffee in further ornate splendour in Obecní dům. It was quiet when we went in but most of the tables were reserved and soon we were surrounded by American tourists taking their pick from the cake trolley.

After coffee we slipped downstairs and were briefly tempted by the idea of lunch in the dark brown splendour of the bars in the basement but I had my sights set on somewhere else.

Before going to Prague I had come across a website offering a food map to Prague and we were just round the corner from one of the places it recommended.

Lokal on Dlouha was in a long slim room on a street corner with tables and chairs broken up by bars and food counters. One of the food counters was reminiscent of what we had at school, large metal dishes filled stews and other good things. Although it was early most of the tables were either filled already or reserved. We walked through the room and found a table by the doors into the kitchens. There was a chalk mark on the wall next to each table giving it it’s number.

The menu on the table was all in Czech and I started to wonder if the glossary at the back of my guidebook was going to be sophisticated enough to enable me to tell the difference between cheese and head cheese (cheese being cheese and head cheese being a pigs head, boiled for a few hours, all meat picked off with your fingers and then compressed).

Fortunately there was an English menu to hand and I was able to settle down to that. With the beer there was some confusion as to what the difference between having my Pilsner “sliced” or with “beer foam”. Although I asked for an explanation I was just shown a picture of a beer mat. I ordered it sliced.

To eat I started with a plate of Prague ham with creamy whipped horseradish. This was a bright plate of folds of pink pig and a billowing pile of giving white whipped cream that came with a slight kick of horseradish.

Next up was roast pork neck with braised cabbage and dumplings.

A beer card was left on the table. It was marked with small beer glasses and next to each picture of a beer glass was a small box. As each pint was ordered another tick in a box was made on the card. There were about 70 boxes on the card which would no doubt make for an interesting evening.

Sadly there wasn’t enough time for settling glass of their Slivovitz Lokal 2013 before I was before I was bundled out and on my way back to the hotel and a taxi to the airport. Continue reading